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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred establishments. However, tucked near the top among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu found in a far-flung corner of north London.

A Shocking Honour

This small Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. This honour has left the owners totally astonished.

“I’m utterly astonished,” remarks a owner’s son, referring to his parents’ dedication that led to their small place earning such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its former charm. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the fare, and this restaurant definitely excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for below £25, comparable tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

The Ethos of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not train at elite restaurants. “I am very proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s success is set to resonate outside its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this gastronomic triumph.